The Story of Brooks Brothers: America’s Oldest Clothier

In 1818, as America was still stitching together its identity, a young man named Henry Sands Brooks opened a modest haberdashery at the corner of Catherine and Cherry Streets in New York City. He named it H. & D.H. Brooks & Co., later known as Brooks Brothers—a name that would become synonymous with American menswear and the gentleman’s wardrobe.

The Birth of American Style

From its earliest days, Brooks Brothers wasn’t just selling clothing; it was crafting a new American look—tailored yet democratic, refined but not aristocratic. While Europe looked to royalty for style cues, Brooks Brothers looked to the American man—practical, ambitious, and quietly confident.

In 1845, they introduced ready-made suits, a revolutionary idea at the time. Up to that point, suits were exclusively bespoke, cut and sewn to order. Brooks Brothers saw a different future—one where quality tailoring could be accessible without weeks of waiting.

The Ivy League Uniform

By the early 20th century, Brooks Brothers had become the unofficial outfitter of the Ivy League elite. They introduced the now-iconic polo collar button-down shirt in 1896—adapted from English polo players who buttoned their collars to prevent flapping mid-match. That detail, now standard in classic American shirts, came to define the “Ivy Style”: relaxed but sharp, collegiate but mature.

They weren’t just shaping students—they dressed presidents too. Abraham Lincoln wore a custom Brooks Brothers overcoat to Ford’s Theatre the night of his assassination, and nearly every U.S. president since has worn their tailoring. They’ve dressed captains of industry, literary icons, and cultural giants—from Franklin D. Roosevelt to Andy Warhol, from Clark Gable to Paul Newman.

Enduring Legacy Through Changing Times

The 20th century saw Brooks Brothers expand nationally and then globally, all while maintaining their core aesthetic—natural shoulders, soft roll lapels, and classic proportions. Their Golden Fleece logo, adopted in 1850, harkens back to ancient mythology but came to stand for quality, consistency, and old-world craftsmanship.

In the post-war boom, Brooks Brothers was the bedrock of office attire—navy blazers, oxford shirts, rep ties, and khakis. Through the casual revolutions of the '60s and '70s, and the power-dressing of the '80s, Brooks Brothers remained a steady presence, adjusting but never pandering.

They were never trend-chasers. They were style-setters for the quietly confident. The man who didn’t need flash to command a room—just a well-fitted navy suit, polished loafers, and a sense of history.

Modern Revival & Continued Relevance

Ownership changed hands several times in the 21st century—from British retailer Marks & Spencer to Italian billionaire Claudio Del Vecchio. In 2020, after 202 years of continuous operation, Brooks Brothers filed for bankruptcy amid the COVID-19 pandemic, a painful moment for America’s most enduring clothier.

But that wasn’t the end.

The brand was acquired by Authentic Brands Group and Simon Property Group, who set out to honor its legacy while reinvigorating it for a new era. The goal: preserve the craftsmanship and timeless design while meeting the expectations of modern customers.

Why It Matters

To wear Brooks Brothers is to wear a piece of American history. Each oxford shirt, each chalk stripe suit, each repp tie carries with it the echo of a thousand boardrooms, lecture halls, and inauguration stages. It’s more than fabric and stitching—it’s heritage made wearable.

And for those of us who still believe in dressing with intention, honoring provenance, and building wardrobes with stories, Brooks Brothers remains not just relevant—but vital.